Rocklands

I've been heading out to Rocklands quite a bit lately, for the past three weekends in a row actually. It's been great to get out there, and despite the high temps its not too bad, as long as you manage your climbing properly, by climbing at the right times as well as on the right problems.

So I managed to get a taste of some of the harder problems in Rocklands, like "Quintessential" (8B), "Derailed" (8B+) and "Ray of Light" (8B). All of which are brick hard, and way out of my league at this point in time. What I did notice when trying the moves on these hard problems is how inspiring it is to know that these moves are possible, and that they hopefully will be possible for me one day. Quintessential feels particularly like my style, i.e. short and crimpy, and so later in the Rocklands season I think that's going to be in my sights, although my fingers are going to have to be in superb shape to handle those forces. So last weekend in Rocklands I managed to send "Who The Fuck Is Minki" (7C), which is actually a really cool line, with lots of body climbing, and a sweet left hand cutloose at the end.

"Who The Fuck Is Minki" (7C) Photo by Duncan Fraser

I got super close to a send on "Cedar Spine" (7C) only to fall off on the last holds... Next time I plan to give the top-out a better look so I'm a bit more efficient on it. Otherwise it was so much fun progressing on that problem, and the height keeps you on edge when you're doing those moves up top. Another line to finish on one of the coming weekends is "Kingdom in the Sky" (7C), but I think after mastering some footwork that line will go down fairly quickly.

"Kingdom in the Sky" (7C) Photo by Duncan Fraser

Duncan almost sent "Ulan Batar" (7B), after getting through the initial moves, so hopefully that'll go on the next trip. He also worked "Who The Fuck Is Minki" (7C) and managed to do almost all the moves, so that send is looking close too. This last weekend was really relaxing and enjoyable in the end, after lots of laughing with friends, and taking some time to simply enjoy the experience of being out in Rocklands. So on Thursday night the plan is to head back out, and my plan is to finish off "Cedar Spine" and hopefully get onto "Desperado" (8A) at the fortress, which is apparently short and crimpy. But for now it's to Stellenbosch for the WP Boulder League, we set some rad problems the other night so I'm keen to see how they go down, and hopefully the mats are back, otherwise we're gonna need some amazing spotting...

Redhill

So here is my first blog post... I'm planning on writing all about my climbing, what I've been doing, where I've been going and what I've been thinking. Hopefully I'll be getting lots of cool pics and even some HD clips going soon... so last night was a night session after work, the status quo as a working boulderer in Cape Town. Marijus and I headed out to Easter Island at Redhill, as Marijus has been working a rad project there which is possiby going to go at 8B, putting it at the top end of the problems in CT. The line looks amazing, with some super hard compression moves and some solid crimping. Marijus has the beta worked out and is pretty much just refining it and getting ready for the send, which is gonna be sick! I got back on "Storefront Cemetary" (8A) which is a line that Marijus opened right next to the project, with some rather unusual moves. The crux is essentially a left facing crimp and a right toe hook, with your body almost horizontal, and then you have to hop through some more left facing crimps to a solid one. The moves are hard to get around your head, as you have to place so much trust in the right toe hook. I managed to get through the crux and fell on some of the moves I've done before, so I think a session next week will hopefully bring the send! After all that work we went to work a project at Coppermine, also looking very hard, with a huge move off some sharp holds, but rad nonetheless. Before it got dark there was an amazing sunset, and a full moon later in the evening, what an awesome place to be!

Photo by Marijus Smigelskis