The Razor Crimp Showdown Project

On Sunday Marijus and I headed up to topside for the day. We decided to take a slightly different walkin, a much more direct walk which was pretty much straight up to the top of the mountain. After getting shut down on some supposed warm ups, we decided to get cracking on an old project. I had never been on it before, so I was quite psyched to see what the moves were like. It looks really hard, and all the moves are not too big moves on really small and sharp crimps. After doing "Black Demon" the day before my tips weren't exactly amped for sharp crimps. Luckily the crimps dont rely on friction much, so I ended up just taping all my right hand tips up. There seems to be one really hard move so far, which is basically a move off a micro undercling crimp up to a small sharp crimp. At first we couldn't even put much weight on the undercling crimp, but after working out a special way to hold it we managed to actually release the right hand and start it moving towards the next hold, so it's a start... Now the tendons and fingers need to get really strong. The next obstacle is the pain. There are so many small sharp crimps in the end that its gonna be so ridiculously painful going through so many moves. But we can worry about that when we get that far, as so far we haven't really linked many moves at all. Maybe one at the start.

Photo by Marijus Smigelskis

So the plan is to return to the project for a good few sessions, and hopefully some progress will emerge. Definitely psyched to work this, and hopefully my fingers will be up for the challenge.